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WORKING PAPER | November 2021 | 1 WORKING PAPER ROADMAP TO NET ZERO DELIVERING SCIENCE- BASED TARGETS IN THE APPAREL SECTOR MICHAEL SADOWSKI, LEWIS PERKINS, AND EMILY MCGARVEY CONTENTS 1. Executive Summary .1 2. Introduction . 3 3. The State of GHG Data in the Apparel Sector 4 4. Methodology .7 5. Results 11 6. Recommendations for Improving Sector GHG Emissions Data 13 7 Reducing Emissions in the Apparel Sector 13 8 Spotlight on the Circular Economy .20 9 Call to Action . 23 Appendices . 24 Endnotes34 References .35 Working Papers contain preliminary research, analysis, findings, and recommendations. They are circulated to stimulate timely discussion and critical feedback, and to influence ongoing debate on emerging issues. Suggested Citation Sadowski, M., L. Perkins, and E. McGarvey. 2021. “Roadmap to Net-Zero Delivering Science-Based Targets in the Apparel Sector.” Working Paper. Washington, DC World Resources Institute. Available online at https//doi.org/10.46830/wriwp.20.00004. 1. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1.1 Highlights ▪ The apparel industry has seen a proliferation of companies setting science-based targets SBTs on climate change. Currently, over 100 apparel and footwear companies have approved SBTs or commitments to set thema significant increase from a dozen just three years ago. 1 ▪ Given this momentum, it is imperative to identify how companies and the sector will deliver on these ambitious targets. That is the central objective of this working paper. ▪ Using data from Higg, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, and Textile Exchange, we estimate apparel sector emissions at 1.025 gigatonnes Gt of carbon dioxide equivalent CO 2 e in 2019, or roughly 2 percent of annual global greenhouse gas GHG emissions. 2 Unchecked, emissions will grow to 1.588 Gt by 2030, well off pace to deliver the 45 percent absolute reduction needed to limit warming to 1.5°C. ▪ This research identified six interventions that deliver over 60 percent of the necessary reductions to align with a 1.5°C scenario maximizing material efficiency, scaling more sustainable materials and practices, accelerating the development of innovative materials, maximizing energy efficiency, eliminating coal in manufacturing, and shifting to 100 percent renewable electricity. The sector must find solutions to deliver the balance. ▪ The paper also discusses the potential benefits of circular business models and practices, though data on GHG reductions from circularity needs improvement. 2 | 1.2 Context When World Resources Institute WRI initiated work on the Apparel and Footwear Sector Science-Based Targets Guidance in late 2017, there were roughly a dozen apparel and footwear companies that had joined the Science Based Targets initiative SBTi; by September 2021, over 100 such companies had joined. During this time, the roster of companies has diversified to include brands, retailers, and manufacturers of all sizes and geographic locations. The Guidance provided a blueprint for apparel companies to set SBTs and offered sector-specific context. Now, the goal of the Roadmap is to provide direction for how com- panies and the sector can focus collective attention on the most impactful interventions for reducing emissions by 45 percent by 2030 and to net zero by 2050. 1.3 About This Report The Roadmap was developed by WRI and the Apparel Impact Institute Aii, with generous support from the Laudes Foundation. Using data from the Sustainable Apparel Coalition SAC, Higg, and Textile Exchange, we developed an estimate of apparel sector emissions and projected these emissions to 2030 under a business-as- usual growth scenario. The Roadmap also highlights key assumptions and limitations in the data sources and offers recommendations for improving the data over time. The target audience for the Roadmap is apparel com- panies and the organizations that must be part of the effort to reduce sector emissions. The vast majority of sector emissions lie in the supply chains of brands tiers 1 through 4. See Figure 1 for an illustration of the value chain and Figure 3 for data on the emissions across Scopes for a selection of apparel and footwear companies with approved SBTs. 1.4 Research Approach and Baseline Findings The objectives of the Roadmap are as follows 1. Map the major sources of GHG emissions across the apparel value chain. 2. Identify the most impactful actions companies can take to reduce emissions. 3. Highlight the challenges to taking these actions and potential solutions. 4. Identify the organizations and initiatives working to reduce emissions in the sector. To meet these objectives, we reviewed various reports and studies, including several sector GHG estimates, and interviewed experts from across the industry. We estimate apparel sector emissions to be 1.025 Gt CO 2 e in 2019. Under a business-as-usual growth scenario, 3 sector emissions will grow to 1.588 Gt by 2030well off Figure ES-1 | Projected GHG Emissions for the Apparel Sector, 2019–2030 Source WRI authors. WORKING PAPER | November 2021 | 3 Roadmap to Net Zero Delivering Science-Based Targets in the Apparel Sector pace to deliver 45 percent absolute reduction see Figure ES-1. Section 3 of this report describes key limitations and assumptions. 1.5 Key Interventions for Reducing Emissions This report identifies six interventions for the sector to reduce emissions ▪ Maximizing material efficiency. Through design, material selection, and methods of manufacturing, reduce the amount of fiber and materials that go to waste in each stage of production. ▪ Scaling sustainable materials and practices. Increase the use of more sustainable materials such as recycled polyester and practices for instance, conservation tillage for cotton. ▪ Accelerating the development of innovative materials. Ramp up investment in next generation materials, including textile recycling, bio-based materials, and plant-based leather. ▪ Maximizing energy efficiency. Expand energy efficiency efforts across manufacturing facilities. ▪ Eliminating coal in manufacturing. Replace coal as a thermal energy source for materials and product manufacturing. ▪ Shifting to 100 percent renewable electricity. Deploy renewable electricity across the supply chain. For each intervention, we estimate the potential GHG savings and identify the barriers and solutions to imple- mentation. Combined, these six interventions could deliver over 60 percent of the needed reductions to stay aligned with a 45 percent reduction pathway. For the balance, and to achieve net zero by 2050, the industry will need to develop new materials, methods of manufactur- ing, and business models. The industry will also need to address what WRI has called the “elephant in the board- room” the unchecked consumption of apparel Putt del Pino et al. 2017. 1.6 Limitations of the Data Used in the Roadmap As described in Section 3, there are limitations in the data used in this report to estimate sector emissions, and we made various assumptions informed by in-depth research. These limitations and assumptions do not change the findings about the relative distribution of emissions across tiers nor the interventions needed to reduce emissions. In being transparent about our data sources and assump- tions, our intent is that the analysis can be improved upon over time. 2 INTRODUCTION 2.1 Overview In June 2019, World Resources Institute WRI published Apparel and Footwear Sector Science Based Targets Guidance Sadowski et al. 2019, the objectives of which were to bring clarity and consistency to climate change targets, in turn resulting in more apparel and footwear companies setting science-based targets SBTs. When WRI initiated work on the Guidance in late 2017, roughly a dozen apparel and footwear companies had joined the Science Based Targets initiative SBTi; by September 2021, over 100 such companies had joined. 4 In developing the Guidance, WRI spoke with a variety of industry stakeholders, including brands, retailers, manufacturers, non-governmental organizations NGOs, consultants, and others. From these conversations and research, we observed that while the Guidance has helped build momentum around SBTs, there was a need to iden- tify how companies could deliver on ambitious greenhouse gas GHG emissions reduction targets. There is also a need for the sector to align on where GHG emissions occur across the value chain Figure 1 and how to reduce these emissions. This is the ultimate goal for the Roadmap to Net Zero Roadmapit is an input and guide for the collaboration needed to reduce emissions by 45 percent by 2030 and to net zero by 2050. With generous support from the Laudes Foundation, WRI partnered with the Apparel Impact Institute Aii to develop the Roadmap. This is a natural collaboration given Aii’s mission to identify, fund, scale, and measure solutions to accelerate positive impact in the apparel industry. 4 | 2.2 Roadmap Objectives and Approach The objectives of the Roadmap are as follows 1. Map the major sources of GHG emissions across the apparel value chain. 5 2. Identify the most impactful actions companies can take to reduce emissions. 3. Highlight the challenges to taking these actions and potential solutions. 4. Identify the organizations and initiatives working to reduce emissions in the sector. To deliver these objectives, we completed a literature review and interviewed experts from across the industry. We partnered with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition SAC and Higg to develop an estimate of apparel sector GHG emissions based on the Higg Materials Sustainability Index MSI and measure the impact of different interven- tions. This methodology is detailed in Section 4. 3 THE STATE OF GHG DATA IN THE APPAREL SECTOR 3.1 Overview Ideally, we would calculate sector GHG emissions by gath- ering activity data for all entities across the value chain brands, manufacturers, mills, material processors, cotton farms, logistics providers, and more. For example, for a Figure 1 | Illustration of the Apparel and Footwear Value Chain Source WRI authors. Consumer care washing, drying, dry cleaning, etc. CONSUMER USE LOGISTICS Shipping of materials and products across value chain. TIER 4 RAW MATERIAL EXTRACTION Cultivation and extraction of raw materials from the earth, plants, or animals TIER 3 RAW MATERIAL PROCESSING Processing of raw materials into yarn and other intermediate products. TIER 2 MATERIAL PRODUCTION Production and finishing of materials e.g., fabric, trims that go directly into finished product. TIER 1 FINISHED PRODUCTION ASSEMBLY Assembly and manufacturing of final products. TIER 0 OFFICE, RETAIL, DISTRIBUTION CENTERS Corporate real estate not involved in production process. Reuse, recycle, landfill. END OF LIFE BOX 1 | Overview of the Higg Index Developed by the SAC, the Higg Index a is a suite of tools that enables brands, retailers, and manufacturers to measure company and product sustainability performance. The Higg Index has several mod- ules, including the MSI, which allows companies to measure their environmental impact from raw material to finished fabric. MSI data comes from sources such as life cycle assessment LCA databases and submissions from companies. In the future, the Higg Facility Environmental Module FEM will be a valuable tool in developing more accurate estimates of apparel sector emissions given the increasing volume of company- and product-specific data collected through it. In the 2019 FEM cycle, over 10,800 FEM modules were shared with value chain partners. For additional context and statistics on the Higg Index, see the SAC report A Decade in Review. b Notes a. For more information about the Higg Index, see https//apparelcoalition. org/the-higg-index. b. SAC 2020a. Source WRI authors.WORKING PAPER | November 2021 | 5 Roadmap to Net Zero Delivering Science-Based Targets in the Apparel Sector cut and sew facility, calculations would include activity data and emissions factors specific to the electricity and fuel used by the facility. For a cotton farm, calculations would draw from activity data and emissions factors from the energy source used for equipment and inputs such as fertilizer. And so on, across the thousands of entities within the value chain. However, such primary data 6 generally either does not exist or is incomplete. Given the large number of entities operating in the value chain, gathering this data will be a significant undertaking that will take years. As the industry works to improve impact data, estimates of sector GHG footprintsincluding the estimates in this Roadmapshould be viewed as rough and directional. These estimates are valuable in identifying the relative distribution of emissions across the value chain and allow companies to prioritize action. However, they do not provide a strong foundation for making claims about the percentage contribution of the apparel industry to global GHG emissions. The estimates included in this publication and previous estimates are based on secondary or average data Table 1. For example, MSI data was used to calculate the sector- BOX 2 | Illustrating the Challenge of Gathering Primary Data ▪ H Quantis 2018; and Berg et al. 2020. Source Compiled by WRI authors. Table 1 | Data Sources for Previous Studies level emissions from cotton farming; that data is based on the average emissions from cotton grown in China, India, Australia, and the United States. For spinning cotton fiber into yarn, MSI data is based on average energy use in textile facilities.6 | Using secondary data to calculate a sector-wide GHG footprint has several limitations ▪ Available emissions factors may not be representative of actual industry activities or practices. For example, polyester raw material data in the MSI comes from European production GaBi 2019 and thus does not cover polyester manufactured in China, the largest producer of polyester inputs globally The Fiber Year Consulting 2020. If Chinese production is more carbon-intensive than European, calculations based on the MSI will underestimate polyester raw materials emissions. 7 ▪ Available emissions factors are generally derived from LCAs of specific products or materials or by comparing LCAs of multiple products or materials, under defined system boundaries. The variables and assumptions in these LCAs may not be transferable to products or materials in other contexts. For example, organic cotton data in the MSI is based on average data from four countries, and organic cotton grown elsewhere may have different impacts. ▪ Secondary data does not allow companies or the sector to track performance over time because the emissions factors are not based on actual activities nor are they generally updated on a regular ba